1983 port and 2004 claret
Cockburn’s 1983 Vintage Port and Saint Julien AOC 2004 Ulysse Cazabonne (Margaux)

Two fine bottles for Christmas and New Year just past. The Cockburn’s 1983 port had somehow lasted in the dusty depths of my cellar. Its time had come last year but we’d had a bad year and didn’t feel like celebrating. So its cork came out this time round. The port wine poured ruby red in to the glass; our first impressions of taste were honey and mead, there was a nutty, almost liquorice flavour as well, which lasted long after the swallow. And a deep warmth as the port wine was absorbed.

The 2004 Saint Julien was destined for Boxing Day but we were disappointed by its sister bottle, 2003 Margaux from the same négotiant, so that we deferred pulling the Saint Julien. It was worth the wait although the cork was one of the most mischievous I’ve had to deal with recently; the second half of the bottle was a bit grainy despite filtering through a stainless steel mesh. The 2004 Saint Julien was peppery and spicy, funny how you can say that of a wine but that was our instant reaction. The colour was tawny and the nose full-bodied but the flavour aligned to red cherries. Pleasantly lingering after-taste.