Levada Nova da Lombada (425 m.)
Probably the most satisfying hike I’ve done on Madeira: spectacular views and waterfalls though difficult as a circular hike because of the narrow path, the rocky overhangs, tunnel and the opportunities for a cold shower. Madeira Island is renowned for its extensive levadas (irrigation channels) which are great hiking routes as well as aqueducts and sources of hydoelectric power. In particular, the levadas of Ponta do Sol have a long and complicated history, including fatalities during construction, a violent riot in 1962 over the right to water when the Levada Nova was proposed and grim origins as supplying water to the sugar cane plantations founded by João Esmeraldo (died 1535) using slave labour. Christopher Columbus stayed in his palace in Funchal on his return from his third trip to the Antilles in 1498, married his daughter and himself became a sugar cane magnate at the time when the product became known as “white gold”.
Hiking up from the black pebble beach at Ponto do Sol, through terraced groves of banana trees, the path is laid with rounded black stones from the beach. We reached the hillside village of Lombada do Ponta do Sol / Lombada do Esmeraldos and were refreshed with fresh papaya, peach and banana smoothies from the kiosk in the square in front of the church. There’s a memorial there to the many people who died working on the construction of the levadas in this valley.
The hiking guidebook recommendation was to hike the Levada Nova da Lombada outwards and the Levada do Moinho down from where they diverge at a modern weir. This gave us a satisfying circular hike featuring the dramatic valley and the views back to the Atlantic Ocean as we progressed inland. There were many hikers coming towards us on the narrow paths between rock overhangs, the levada’s water channel and a precipitous drop. Soon, the cliffs above were dripping moss, then waterfalls so plenty of opportunities for cold showers.
The Levada Nova flows through a 100 m. tunnel; the upstream portal reveals dramatic waterfalls in a grotto; the water cascades outside the levada and path so you walk behind the waterfall, mostly. Another cold shower!
We took our picnic at the reservoir at the head of both levadas. The return down the much older Levada do Moinho was more steeply graded, had an unnerving tendency to look as though water was running uphill, but was more bucolic green valley than rocky cliff; it took us back to the church square relatively quickly, then on down to the beach. We enjoyed a fine sunset over the Atlantic before dinner back in Funchal Lido.
Wolf’s app indicated 16.6 km with 443 m. elevation gain and 425 m. max altitude.
Thanks to Wolf for the use of some of his photos.
Ponta do Sol
Carreira
Lombada
Levada Nova, Ponta do Sol
View down from the weir
Levada do Moinho
Atlantic sunset, Funchal - Madeira