Hike in the Valloise valley in the middle of the Massif des Écrins to see the Black and the White glaciers. Climate warming means these glaciers have retreated to approximately their extent in Roman times; it’s now a major hike to reach the ice of either. The valley floor is reminiscent of Yosemite with its pine trees. We saw almost no wildlife - no birds, no mammals - although this is a protected area within the national park.